It's amazing how few tourists there are in a city in winter in a country at war. We were the only people with foreign plates that we saw. On the other hand, everything was open and beautiful and it was definitely worth the trip.
The photo directly below shows a makeshift war memorial.
I found these kits in a textile shop in Odessa week before last. They're beading on printed fabric. I can't wait to have the time and space to start one.